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Spring, 2006

Market Expands Into Old Schoolhouse Bookstore

Market’s GM Visits Coffee Co-ops in Mexico

Special Thanks


Market Expands Into Old Schoolhouse Bookstore

After much planning, work, and enthusiasm, the South Royalton Market expanded into the Old Schoolhouse Bookstore at the end of 2005. Volunteers contributed many hours behind the scenes at meetings and planning sessions to make sure that the expansion would go smoothly.

The Board would like to thank in particular: David Brandau, Randy Leavitt, and Peter Gutschow for overseeing the work; Steve Judge and his crew for doing the actual construction; the volunteers who helped move coolers, shelves, and products from one “side” to another during the Christmas break; Tom Powers for continuing to be a flexible and supportive landlord; Anita Abbot for first coming up with the idea to share her space with the Market; and, of course, Peg Grote and the entire South Royalton Market staff for being the best staff a cooperative could hope to have. We couldn’t have done it without you!


Market’s GM Visits Coffee Co-ops in Mexico

Peggy Grote won’t forget January 12.

It was a Thursday, hot, sunny and cloudless, at least 80 degrees, the day she and seven fellow managers and buyers from U.S. food cooperatives walked – climbed is more like it — up a mountain in southern Mexico to see and experience coffee farming first hand. “I think I never felt so out of breath in my life,” she said. She and the others were being introduced to members of rural farm cooperatives whose coffee and other products are sold in the South Royalton Co-op and similar markets, and also to the realities of life in the Third World. In such countries indigenous rural workers try to compete with international agribusiness giants that dominate the marketplace, and it’s frequently a losing battle, she learned.

Her hosts fed her and her friends as if they were visiting royalty, held dances and played music almost endlessly, she said, rolling her eyes in wonder. “We were exhausted.”

Sponsor of the week-long trip to Mexico was Equal Exchange, the Massachusetts-based marketing cooperative that supplies coffee, tea, cocoa and chocolate to South Royalton’s and similar co-op markets in New England and across the United States. Equal Exchange is a growing business in its own right; it has expanded sales every year since its 1986 founding, and by 26 percent in each of the past two years, says spokesman Rodney North.

Its mission, says Grote, is to support Third-World small-farm cooperatives through the practice of fair trading, which includes payment of guaranteed minimum ‘fair’ prices and access to previously off-limits credit for investment in land, education and improved social services. Equal Exchange’s informational brochure says it works with more than 30 coffee, tea, cocoa and sugar co-ops in 15 countries around the world. Mexico, of course, is one.

Grote would have made the trip a year ago. “Our membership raised about $1,000 so I could go,” she said. “It was really wonderful.” But a blizzard forced cancellation of the 2005 flight; so, she was asked to go this year, joined by seven counterparts from as close as Hanover, N.H., and as far as Lincoln, Neb. And she did, flying initially to Tuxtla Gutierrez, the capital of Chiapas province in southern Mexico, via Houston and Mexico City.

The auto trip from Tuxtla to the town of San Cristobal de las Casas was one of those memorable moments as well, said Grote. “It was incredibly mountainous with really winding mountain roads. And there we were, with no guard rails, and looking down those cliffs, and people passing us all the time as if they were on an interstate. It was scary.”

And then there was the drive from San Cristobal to a smaller town on another mountaintop, Simojovel, with a stop for lunch in a village apparently under control of Zapatista rebels, whom even residents of South Royalton have read about.

“We had to give them our passports,” Grote said. “But it was all right. We got them back.” They talked briefly with some village men who wore masks and then they ate lunch of rice, beans, a chicken dish and tortillas, “and it was fantastic.”

The following day they drove – at least that’s how the written trip itinerary phrased it – to the final stop, a small community called Jose Castillo Tielemans where the coffee farmers lived and where the band started playing. But “drove” wasn’t the word Grote used. “We were in a truck with high racks and were just hanging on,” she gasped. “What a crazy ride.”

The walk to the coffee trees came the day after. “It made the walk up to Kent’s Ledge (in South Royalton) seem like a breeze,” she remembered. For openers, it was twice as steep and much, much longer. And there were large stretches of mud, alternating with stretches of rock and gravel. One of her colleagues had become sick that morning and the hike didn’t help.

The 10 or a dozen native coffee farmers and their sons and daughters who walked with them chatted and laughed among themselves — “I think they were laughing at us,” Grote said — and seemed barely to be breathing hard. There were two young girls among them, maybe eight or nine years old, and they were barefooted. This was true of all girls and women, she noticed, whereas men and boys wore shoes or sandals. The people of San Jose were described to her as descendants of the Mayan Indians who once populated Central America. They spoke their own language, which posed interesting challenges because it usually required two translators for each conversation.

She and her fellow co-op representatives were taught how to pick the coffee cherries (“You have to pick carefully. You’ve got to leave the stem because that’s where the bud grows for next year”) and were shown the results of pruning, of cutting grass away from the trees and of reseeding. Coffee trees are relatively small and grow beneath larger trees in mountainside forests. They have four-year life spans, so constant reseeding is a must.

And carting the cherries (the coffee bean is actually the cherry seed) back to the village is a manual operation. No Ford F-150s or Dodge Rams here, but rather 100-pound sacks carried on the farmers’ backs and held in place by tump lines around their foreheads. Girls and women sometimes take turns at this.

The visitors? “We took turns carrying a maybe 50-pound bag,” said Grote, “and that was hard enough.” The growers’ life “is so hard,” she said of her newfound Chiapas friends. Back in the village, there were tearful farewells amid more band music (“They played literally 48 hours non-stop. The whole village was in a festival mood”). But there were also reminders of the hardships, some ironically brought on by the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA).

A fair-trade advocate in Mexico, clearly a NAFTA skeptic, told the visitors that the removal of tariff barriers has led to an influx of cheap American goods that has undercut local commerce and cottage industries south of the border. This has led to increased poverty and a growing tide of illegal aliens into the U.S., he said.

But in South Royalton, the co-op’s tie with Equal Exchange is doing its bit to help right this imbalance in trade, Grote suggests. Sale of its products is growing here, she says, especially the coffee. The co-op stocks Equal Exchange’s tea, cocoa and chocolate as well. And shoppers who buy the organic coffee can know that not only are their dollars and cents going toward a guaranteed minimum for growers but a premium for the organic product as well. The fair-trade concept originated in Europe in the 1940s and has grown worldwide.

-Rory O’Connor


Special Thanks

This winter, Jennie Martin stepped down from the Market’s Board of Directors after serving as secretary for three years. This means that she took notes at every meeting – including Annual Meetings – sent us minutes, and kept us on-task and focused.

Before joining the Board, Jennie had worked as an employee of the Market. Her insights as a former employee, and her cheery spirit, are what we’ll miss the most. Thank you, Jennie!

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